Turtle Soup (山瑞汤)

the real disappearing dish in Singapore's food scene 😞

Uncle Phoon with his bowl of turtle soup

Recently, I had the privilege of learning from Uncle Phoon (Chee Kin), the owner of Kin Turtle Soup, and learning firsthand on how a bowl of turtle soup comes together. While there were still a few trade secrets he understandably kept to himself, what I witnessed was enough to know that this dish is truly a labour of love. It is made with time, patience, and years of quiet dedication.

Uncle Phoon’s day begins long before most of us are awake. By around 4am, he is already at work, carefully preparing the turtle and starting the long process of brewing the soup. He shared that Singapore now has only one turtle supplier left, with strict regulations and limited quotas each year. This, he explained, is one of the reasons why turtle soup stalls are slowly disappearing—it has become increasingly expensive and difficult to sustain as a business.

turtle meat in a steamer

Yet, it wasn’t always like this. In the 1970s, Uncle Phoon was introduced to the trade through his brother-in-law, who ran a turtle soup stall near Chinatown. Back then, the soup was especially popular among office workers and coolies, valued for its ability to rejuvenate and nourish the body (补身). Over time, he learned everything from slaughtering the turtle to balancing the soup’s flavours, eventually opening his own stall in the 1980s at Sin Huat Coffee Shop, where he has remained ever since.

As I worked alongside him, Uncle Phoon also shared more about the health benefits behind the soup. He showed us some of the herbs he uses—Dang Sheng, often called “poor man’s ginseng,” to replenish qi (vital energy); Qing Gong, believed to support brain and cognitive health; goji berries, which are good for the eyes and add a gentle sweetness to the soup; and Chen Pi (dried orange peel), known for aiding respiratory health and digestion. Beyond the herbs, turtle meat itself is traditionally believed to support joint and skin health, as it is naturally rich in collagen. Seeing the care that goes into each ingredient made it clear that this soup is meant to nourish, not just fill the stomach.

Uncle Phoon (Kin)

Despite the repetitive nature of his routine (boiling the soup, steaming the turtle, adjusting flavours), Uncle Phoon works with remarkable precision. He is meticulous about cooking the meat just right, preserving its unique texture, and ensuring the soup strikes a careful balance between herbal depth and natural sweetness. Watching him work quietly, without complaint, was humbling, and it made me reflect on how often we overlook and under appreciate our hawkers. Turtle soup, in particular, feels like a hidden dish, one many of us have never had the chance to truly understand.

I’ll admit, I once found the idea of eating turtle strange too. But after witnessing the long hours, the thoughtful use of herbs, and the care poured into every bowl, I began to see it differently. Uncle Phoon is 74 this year, yet he remains energetic and youthful—a quiet testament to a life shaped by discipline and tradition. Before turtle soup fades into memory, I hope more people will give it a chance. Sometimes, understanding only comes when we slow down, look closer, and are willing to taste something unfamiliar.

@nomies.coperhaps the secret to longlasting youth is in a $16 turtle soup? #turtlesoup #soup #sgfoodie

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Turtle Soup (山瑞汤)

(serves 4-6)

* please note that the following recipe is a spin-off from Uncle Phoon’s recipe as there are some specifics that he chose to omit sharing :) *

1 medium size turtle

herbal bag: (our own concoction)
5 pcs orange peel
2 sticks of Dang Sheng (Codonopsis Root)
2 slices of Qing Gong
3 pcs red dates

2l of water
1 chicken/ vegetable/ collagen stock cube

seasoning:
2 tbsp of cooking wine
1 tsp of brandy
1 tbsp of soya sauce

condiments:
dash of white pepper
chopped coriander
pinch of goji berries

directions

• add water and the herbal bag into a pot and bring it to a boil

• while waiting for the herbal stock to boil, remove the visible fats on the turtle meat

• once boiled, add in the turtle and simmer it for about 40-50 minutes

• remove the turtle from the pot, and allow it to cool

• once its warm to touch, detach the meat from the bones and the skin around the shell (if there is a shell) and set it aside

• to serve, pour the soup in a bowl, add in the shredded meat, and a splash of seasoning and condiments to taste

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